A trade-in is when you sell your current vehicle to a dealership and credit its value against the purchase price of your next one. The dealer pays the wholesale value (typically $1,500 to $5,000 below private-sale retail), then resells or auctions the vehicle. In Ontario, the trade-in amount also reduces the HST you pay on the new vehicle.

Trading in at a dealership is the most common way Canadians dispose of a car when buying a new one. It is also where buyers lose the most money without realizing it. Not because the dealer is doing anything illegal. The information asymmetry is just enormous. The dealer knows the wholesale value of your car to the dollar. You are guessing based on a Kelley Blue Book estimate and a gut feeling.

The trade-in process involves three separate financial decisions happening at once. Most buyers focus on one: what they get for the old car. The other two (the HST tax credit and how the trade-in value affects the new vehicle's negotiated price) are where the real money moves. This guide covers all three, plus the situations where trading in is the wrong choice entirely.

The Ontario HST Trade-In Tax Credit

This is the most important financial reason to trade in at a dealership rather than selling privately. Most Ontario buyers have heard of the trade-in tax credit. Few understand the exact math or how much money it represents.

In Ontario, when you trade in a vehicle as part of a new or used vehicle purchase at a registered dealer, you pay HST only on the difference between the new vehicle price and the trade-in value. This is not a deduction. It is not a rebate you apply for later. It happens automatically on the bill of sale. The dealer calculates HST on the net amount after the trade-in credit.

Example: HST Credit on a $45,000 Purchase with $15,000 Trade-In

Without trade-in: HST on $45,000 = $5,850

With trade-in at dealer: HST on ($45,000 − $15,000) = HST on $30,000 = $3,900

Tax saving: $1,950

That $1,950 stays in your pocket, but only if you trade in at a dealership. If you sell the same car privately for $15,000 and buy the new vehicle separately, you pay the full $5,850 in HST on the new purchase. The private sale proceeds do not reduce your tax obligation.

The HST credit scales with the trade-in value. Here is how it breaks down across different trade-in amounts:

New Vehicle Price Trade-In Value HST Without Trade-In HST With Trade-In Tax Saved
$35,000 $8,000 $4,550 $3,510 $1,040
$45,000 $15,000 $5,850 $3,900 $1,950
$55,000 $22,000 $7,150 $4,290 $2,860
$70,000 $30,000 $9,100 $5,200 $3,900

The formula is simple: trade-in value multiplied by 0.13 equals your HST saving. A $20,000 trade-in saves you $2,600 in tax. A $30,000 trade-in saves $3,900. This credit is the foundation of the entire trade-in vs. private sale decision, and it heavily favours the dealership trade-in for vehicles with higher values.

Key Detail

The HST credit applies to the trade-in value the dealer gives you, not the vehicle's market value or what you think it is worth. If the dealer appraises your car at $15,000 and you believe it is worth $18,000, the credit is calculated on $15,000. This is one reason getting an accurate appraisal matters: every dollar of trade-in value also represents $0.13 in tax savings.

Get Multiple Appraisals Before You Go to the Dealer

The most common mistake Ontario buyers make with trade-ins: accepting the first number. You would not accept the first offer on your house. Do not accept the first appraisal on your car.

Before you set foot in a dealership, get two to three independent trade-in appraisals. Not from friends. Not from an online estimator. Formal written appraisals from sources the dealer cannot dismiss.

Where to get appraisals:

  • Canadian Black Book Instant Cash Offer: An online tool backed by real wholesale market data. You enter your vehicle details and receive a guaranteed offer from a participating dealer. This is not an estimate. It is a binding offer valid for a set period.
  • CarGurus Instant Market Value: Aggregates asking prices for comparable vehicles currently listed for sale across Canada. While this shows retail, not wholesale, it helps you understand the upper ceiling of your car's value.
  • Competing dealerships: Drive to two or three dealerships you are not planning to buy from. Tell them you are getting your car appraised and are not buying today. Most will appraise it in 15 to 20 minutes and give you a written number. This is the most valuable data point you can bring to the negotiation.
  • AutoTrader sold comparables: Search for your exact make, model, year, and trim on AutoTrader.ca. Filter by Ontario. Note the asking prices. Dealers typically retail used vehicles at 15% to 25% above wholesale, so mentally discount the asking prices by that margin to estimate wholesale value.

When you walk into the dealership where you plan to buy, you should already know your car's wholesale range within a few hundred dollars. This is the number the dealer works from internally. If their appraisal comes in significantly below your research range, you have specific, defensible data to push back with.

The Shell Game: How Dealers Use Trade-Ins to Pad the Deal

This tactic costs Ontario buyers the most money on trade-in deals, and most never realize it happened. It goes by the shell game, the bump, or simply "switching the numbers." Here is how it works.

You negotiate the new vehicle price down to $42,000. You feel good. Then the dealer says they will give you $16,000 for your trade-in, which is $1,500 more than the other appraisals you got. You feel even better. You think you won on both sides of the deal.

But look at the math on the bill of sale. The vehicle price is now listed at $43,500, not the $42,000 you negotiated. The trade-in is listed at $16,000. The net difference is $27,500. If the dealer had kept the price at $42,000 and given you $14,500 for the trade-in (a fair wholesale number), the net difference would be the same: $27,500. You are paying the exact same amount. The dealer gave you a "higher" trade-in value by raising the price of the new car by the same amount.

The Shell Game in Action

What you think happened:

Vehicle price: $42,000  |  Trade-in: $16,000  |  Net: $26,000

What actually happened:

Vehicle price: $43,500  |  Trade-in: $16,000  |  Net: $27,500

What a fair deal looks like:

Vehicle price: $42,000  |  Trade-in: $14,500  |  Net: $27,500

The "extra" $1,500 on your trade was taken from the vehicle discount. Net cost is identical or worse.

The psychological effect is powerful. You walked in hoping for $14,000 to $15,000 on trade. The dealer offered $16,000. You feel like you won. But the new vehicle price quietly moved up by $1,500. The dealer's gross margin on the deal did not change.

How to protect yourself: Negotiate the vehicle price and the trade-in value as two separate transactions. Agree on the purchase price first, in writing, before you mention your trade-in. Once the purchase price is locked, discuss the trade-in as a separate line item. If the vehicle price on the bill of sale differs from what you agreed to before the trade-in discussion, stop and ask why. This is the single most effective defence against the shell game.

The rule: Never negotiate the vehicle price and trade-in value at the same time. Set the purchase price first. Introduce the trade-in second. If the bill of sale shows a different vehicle price than what you agreed to, the numbers have been moved.

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Trade-In vs. Private Sale: When Each Makes Sense

The trade-in vs. private sale question is not a matter of opinion. It is math. Compare the net proceeds from each option after accounting for the HST credit, the cost of a safety certificate, your time, and the risk involved.

The Full Comparison

Let's use a concrete example. You own a 2020 Honda CR-V with 85,000 km, clean CarFax, in good condition. The dealer offers $21,000 on trade. You believe you can sell it privately for $25,500.

Trade-In at Dealer

Trade-in value: $21,000

HST credit (13% of $21,000): +$2,730

Safety certificate: not required (dealer handles)

Time investment: 0 hours

Effective value: $23,730

Private Sale

Sale price: $25,500

HST credit: $0 (no credit on private sale)

Safety certificate: −$600 (average cost in Ontario)

Minor repairs to pass safety: −$400 (estimate)

Time: listing, photos, responding to messages, test drives, negotiation: 10 to 20 hours

Net proceeds: $24,500

In this example, the private sale nets $770 more after accounting for the HST credit and costs. Whether that $770 is worth 10 to 20 hours of your time, plus the risk of scam buyers, bounced bank drafts, and lowball offers, is a personal call. For many people, it is not.

Now look at what happens when the trade-in value is higher:

Higher-Value Vehicle: $30,000 Trade vs. $35,000 Private

Trade-in effective value: $30,000 + $3,900 HST credit = $33,900

Private sale net: $35,000 − $700 safety − $500 repairs = $33,800

Trade-in wins by $100, and you saved 15+ hours of effort.

When Trade-In Usually Wins

  • Higher-value vehicles where the HST credit is large (over $2,500 in tax savings)
  • Vehicles that need mechanical work to pass an Ontario safety inspection
  • Vehicles with accident history that is harder to sell privately
  • Common models the dealer can retail quickly (Honda, Toyota, Hyundai SUVs)
  • When your time has a high opportunity cost and the net difference is under $1,000

When Private Sale Usually Wins

  • Lower-value vehicles (under $10,000) where the HST credit is modest
  • Enthusiast or specialty vehicles with strong private demand (sports cars, trucks with modifications)
  • Very clean vehicles with low mileage that command a premium from private buyers
  • When the gap between dealer appraisal and private market value exceeds $4,000 to $5,000

Negative Equity: The Most Expensive Mistake in Car Buying

Negative equity means you owe more on your current car loan than the vehicle is worth on trade. This is more common than most buyers realize. It hits people who financed with a small down payment, chose a long loan term (72 to 84 months), or bought a vehicle that depreciated faster than their loan balance decreased.

Here is what happens when you trade in with negative equity. You owe $22,000 on a car the dealer appraises at $17,000. The $5,000 difference does not disappear. It gets rolled into the new vehicle loan.

Negative Equity Roll: The True Cost

Amount owed on current vehicle: $22,000

Dealer trade-in appraisal: $17,000

Negative equity: $5,000

New vehicle price: $40,000

Total financed (new car + rolled negative equity): $45,000

Interest on $5,000 over 60 months at 6.99%: ~$900

That $5,000 in negative equity actually costs you $5,900 with interest. You are now underwater on the new car from day one.

The worst part: you start in negative equity on the new vehicle too, because you owe $45,000 on a car worth $40,000 (and depreciating). If your circumstances change and you need to sell or trade within the first two to three years, you face the same problem again. Only deeper.

What to do instead: If you are in negative equity, the best financial decision in most cases is to keep driving your current vehicle until the loan balance drops below the trade-in value. Yes, this means waiting. It means continuing to make payments on a car you want to replace. But rolling $3,000-$9,000 of negative equity into a new loan creates a debt cycle that gets progressively harder to escape.

If you must trade in with negative equity (the car is unsafe, your needs have fundamentally changed), make a lump-sum payment to reduce the shortfall before the trade, choose a less expensive vehicle to keep the total financed amount manageable, and keep the loan term as short as possible. Do not extend to 84 months for a comfortable payment. That comfortable payment hides the true cost.

How to Check Your Equity Position

Call your lender and ask for your current loan payout amount (this is different from your remaining balance, as it includes any interest adjustment). Then get your vehicle appraised. If the payout amount is higher than the appraisal, you are in negative equity by the difference. Know this number before you walk into a dealership. Dealers will figure it out in minutes. You should know before they do.

Timing Your Trade-In Strategically

When you trade in matters more than most buyers realize. Wholesale values fluctuate with seasonal demand, mileage milestones, and market conditions. Timing your trade-in around these factors can move the needle by $500 to $2,000.

Seasonal Patterns

  • SUVs and trucks: Peak demand is September through November, when buyers start thinking about winter. Trade-in values for AWD SUVs and 4x4 trucks are typically highest in early fall. By February, demand softens because the buyers who needed a winter vehicle already bought one.
  • Convertibles and sports cars: Spring and early summer (March through June) is when demand peaks. Do not trade in a Miata in November.
  • Sedans and economy cars: Less seasonal, but tend to do slightly better in spring when new graduates and first-time buyers enter the market.

Mileage Milestones

Wholesale and retail buyers respond psychologically to round mileage numbers. A vehicle with 98,000 km is worth noticeably more than the same vehicle with 102,000 km. The mechanical difference is negligible. The market treats 100,000 km as a threshold. The same applies at 60,000 km (common warranty expiration), 80,000 km, and 150,000 km.

If your vehicle is approaching one of these milestones, trading in before you cross it can preserve $500 to $1,500 in value. If you are at 97,000 km and planning to trade in within the next few months, do it now rather than putting on another 5,000 km of daily driving.

Market Conditions

New vehicle inventory levels drive used vehicle values. When new supply is constrained (as it was in 2021 to 2023), used values rise because buyers shift to the used market. When new inventory normalizes, used values soften. Monitor Canadian Black Book's monthly market reports for trend data. If values for your segment are trending down, trading in sooner protects your position.

What Dealers Look at When Appraising Your Trade-In

A dealer trade-in appraisal is not a subjective opinion. It is a calculation based on wholesale market data, adjusted for your vehicle's specific condition. Understanding what goes into that calculation helps you anticipate the number and challenge it if it comes in low.

1. Wholesale Auction Data

The dealer starts with the wholesale auction value: what the car would sell for at a dealer-only auction like ADESA Toronto, Manheim Toronto, or one of the smaller regional auctions. This is the dealer's floor. If they give you more than this number on trade, they need to retail the vehicle from their lot (at a higher price) to make the math work. If they give you less, they can send it to auction and profit on the difference.

Dealers access wholesale data through tools like Canadian Black Book Dealer, vAuto, or direct auction result feeds. You do not have access to these tools, but Canadian Black Book's consumer-facing tools provide a reasonable approximation. The wholesale value is typically 15% to 25% below what you see comparable vehicles listed for on AutoTrader.

2. Mechanical Condition

  • Engine and transmission: Any rough running, check engine lights, transmission hesitation, or unusual noises significantly reduce value. The dealer will budget for diagnosis and repair, typically at internal cost ($80 to $120/hour), not retail rates.
  • Brakes: Worn brake pads and rotors are expected on higher-mileage vehicles and will be deducted. Budget $400 to $800 per axle in the dealer's reconditioning estimate.
  • Tires: If your tires have less than 5/32" tread remaining, the dealer will deduct the cost of replacement. Budget $600 to $1,200 for a set of four, depending on size.
  • Suspension: Worn struts, leaking shocks, and broken springs are common deductions on vehicles over 100,000 km.

3. Cosmetic Condition

  • Paint: Deep scratches, significant stone chips, and faded or peeling clear coat reduce value. Minor surface scratches are expected and typically not deducted.
  • Interior: Stains, tears, cigarette burns, and pet damage reduce value significantly. A clean interior with normal wear is neutral.
  • Body damage: Dents, dings, and cracked bumpers are deducted at the dealer's body shop cost, which is lower than retail body shop pricing but still meaningful.

4. Accident History

The dealer will pull a CarFax report on your vehicle. Any reported accidents reduce value, with the severity of the impact depending on the nature of the claim. A minor fender bender with a $2,000 claim may reduce value by $500 to $1,000. A structural damage claim or an airbag deployment can reduce value by $3,000 to $8,000 or more. You cannot change your accident history, but you should know what is on your CarFax before the dealer sees it. Pull your own report at carfax.ca before going in. No surprises for you means no surprise advantage for the dealer.

5. Market Demand for Your Specific Model

A 2021 Toyota RAV4 in the GTA will appraise higher relative to its book value than a 2021 Chevrolet Malibu, because the RAV4 has stronger retail demand and will sell faster on the lot. Dealers pay more for vehicles they can retail quickly because it reduces their carrying cost (floor plan interest, lot space, aging inventory risk). If your vehicle is a fast-selling model in your market, you have room to push.

How to Prepare Your Vehicle for Appraisal

You cannot change your vehicle's mileage, accident history, or mechanical condition in a weekend. But you can control presentation. Presentation influences the appraiser's perception more than most sellers realize. A clean, well-presented vehicle signals the owner maintained it, which reduces the appraiser's mental risk adjustment.

  • Wash and detail the exterior. A $20 hand wash is fine. Remove bird droppings, tree sap, and road grime. Clean the wheels. The appraiser is making a snap judgment in the first 30 seconds.
  • Clean the interior thoroughly. Vacuum the carpets and seats. Wipe down the dashboard and door panels. Clean the windows. Remove all personal items. An empty, clean interior signals a well-maintained vehicle. A car full of fast food wrappers and dog hair signals the opposite.
  • Remove aftermarket modifications. If you installed a cold air intake, aftermarket exhaust, or suspension modifications, consider reverting to stock if you still have the original parts. Most dealers devalue aftermarket modifications because they introduce warranty and reliability uncertainty. The exception is popular truck accessories (tonneau covers, bed liners) that are market-expected.
  • Gather your maintenance records. Oil change receipts, service records, and any warranty repair documentation show consistent maintenance. A vehicle with a documented service history appraises higher than an identical vehicle with no records.
  • Fix minor cosmetic issues. Touch-up paint on stone chips ($15), replace burnt-out bulbs ($5 to $15), and fix any interior trim pieces that are loose or broken. These are inexpensive fixes that remove obvious deduction points from the appraiser's checklist.
  • Address the check engine light. If your check engine light is on, the dealer will assume the worst-case scenario for the underlying issue and deduct accordingly. If the cause is minor (a loose gas cap, a faulty O2 sensor), getting it diagnosed and fixed before the appraisal can save you $500 to $1,500 in inflated deductions.
  • Fill the gas tank. This has zero effect on the appraisal value, but it makes a psychological difference. A full tank signals an owner who takes care of details.

The Wholesale Auction Price: What Your Car Is Actually Worth to the Dealer

Every trade-in appraisal the dealer gives you anchors to one number: the wholesale auction value. This is what the dealer believes (based on data, not guessing) they could get for your vehicle at a dealer-only auction. Understanding this number is the key to evaluating whether an offer is fair or low.

When a dealer takes your car on trade, they have two options: retail it from their lot (clean it up, certify it, sell it to a consumer) or wholesale it (send it to auction and take whatever the market offers that day). The decision depends on the vehicle's condition, how well it fits their inventory mix, and how quickly they expect it to sell.

If they plan to retail it: The dealer needs margin between what they pay you and what they sell it for. Typical gross margin targets on used vehicles are $1,500 to $3,000 above their total cost (trade-in value plus reconditioning). Add $500 to $1,500 in reconditioning costs (safety inspection, detailing, minor repairs), and the dealer needs to retail the vehicle for at least $2,000 to $4,500 more than what they gave you on trade.

If they plan to wholesale it: The dealer wants to break even or make a small margin at auction. They will offer you below wholesale value by $500 to $1,000 to ensure they do not lose money on the auction transaction. This is why some trade-in offers feel insultingly low: the dealer has already decided this car is not going on their lot, and they are pricing it to survive the auction.

How to Estimate Your Wholesale Value

Search AutoTrader.ca for your exact make, model, year, and trim. Filter by Ontario. Note the average asking price from dealer listings. Deduct 20% to 25%. That is a rough approximation of your wholesale auction value. If the dealer is offering significantly less than this number, their offer is below market. If their offer is within $500 of this number, it is a fair wholesale appraisal.

The gap between what a dealer pays you on trade and what they retail the vehicle for is not theft. It is their business model. They provide immediate liquidity (you get value for your car today), reconditioning (they fix what needs fixing), and retail distribution (they market and sell the vehicle). That service has a cost. The question is not whether the dealer profits on your trade-in (they should) but whether the profit is reasonable relative to wholesale market data. Know the wholesale number and you can evaluate the offer. Skip it and you are negotiating blind.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How does the HST trade-in tax credit work in Ontario?

When you trade in a vehicle at an Ontario dealership, you pay HST only on the difference between the new vehicle's price and your trade-in value. If you buy a $45,000 vehicle and trade in a car worth $15,000, you pay 13% HST on $30,000 ($3,900) instead of on $45,000 ($5,850). That saves you $1,950 in tax. This credit is automatic on the bill of sale and only applies at a registered dealer trade-in, not on a private sale. The credit scales directly with the trade-in value: every dollar of trade-in value saves you $0.13 in HST.

Should I trade in my car or sell it privately in Ontario?

It depends on the numbers. Compare the trade-in value plus the HST credit against the private sale price minus safety certificate costs, repairs, and your time. For a vehicle appraised at $21,000 on trade (effective value $23,730 with the $2,730 HST credit) versus a $25,500 private sale (net $24,500 after $1,000 in safety and repair costs), the private sale nets only $770 more before accounting for 10 to 20 hours of your time. For higher-value vehicles, vehicles needing work, or vehicles with accident history, the trade-in typically wins after the HST credit. For specialty vehicles with strong private demand and a large gap between trade and private values, selling privately can net significantly more.

What do dealers actually look at when appraising a trade-in?

Dealers start with wholesale auction data from platforms like ADESA and Manheim, which tells them what your car would sell for at a dealer-only auction. They then adjust based on four factors: mechanical condition (engine, transmission, brakes, tires, suspension), cosmetic condition (paint, interior, body damage), accident history from CarFax, and current retail demand for your specific model in your market. The wholesale auction price is the floor. The dealer either needs to resell it on their lot at a profit or send it to auction and break even. A vehicle in better condition and with stronger market demand will appraise closer to retail value. One needing significant work or with limited demand will appraise closer to or below wholesale.

What happens if I owe more on my car loan than the trade-in value?

This is called negative equity, and the remaining loan balance above the trade-in value gets rolled into your new vehicle loan. If you owe $22,000 on a car the dealer values at $17,000, the $5,000 difference is added to the new loan. On a 60-month term at 6.99%, that $5,000 in rolled-over equity costs you approximately $5,900 with interest. You start the new loan owing more than the car is worth, which means you are immediately in negative equity again. In most cases, the better decision is to continue paying down your current loan until you reach positive equity before trading in. If you must trade in with negative equity, make a lump-sum payment to reduce the shortfall, choose a less expensive replacement vehicle, and keep the new loan term as short as you can manage.

The Bottom Line

Trading in a vehicle in Ontario is a financial transaction with three moving parts: the trade-in value, the HST credit, and the new vehicle's negotiated price. Most buyers focus only on the first. The buyers who get the best outcomes understand all three and negotiate them separately.

Know your car's wholesale value before you walk in. Get multiple appraisals so you have benchmarks. Negotiate the new vehicle price before you introduce the trade-in. Understand the HST credit math so you can make a rational trade-in vs. private sale decision. Check your equity position so negative equity does not get quietly rolled into a new loan. And if the deal does not feel right, walk. The car will still be there tomorrow.

The information asymmetry in the trade-in process is real, but not unbeatable. A dealer who knows you understand wholesale values, the shell game, and the HST credit will give you a materially better offer than one who believes you are guessing. Your preparation is your room to push.

If you are in the middle of a deal right now and need a second opinion on the trade-in number, a Holdback consultation reviews your specific appraisal against wholesale market data and tells you exactly where you stand. We also review every other line on the bill of sale, including dealer fees, finance office products, and hidden margin. One flat fee. No dealer relationships. No referrals. Just the numbers.

H

Written by the Holdback advisory desk

Holdback is an independent Ontario car buying advisory founded by an automotive industry insider with direct franchise dealership experience in both new and used vehicle sales. No referral fees from dealers. No specific dealership recommendations. Flat-fee advisory paid by Ontario buyers is our only income. Based in Toronto, serving buyers across Ontario.

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The Holdback Advisory Desk

Independent Automotive Advisors · Toronto, Ontario

Formally trained in Ontario automotive law and ethics (Automotive Certification Course, Georgian College). Direct franchise dealership experience across new and used sales, finance office, and trade-in desks. Holdback operates fully independent of dealers, manufacturers, and third-party referrers , ue comes only from the flat advisory fee.

Frequently Asked Questions

How does the HST trade-in tax credit work in Ontario?

When you trade in a vehicle at an Ontario dealership, you only pay HST on the difference between the new vehicle price and your trade-in value. For example, if you buy a $45,000 vehicle and trade in a car worth $15,000, you pay 13% HST on $30,000 ($3,900) instead of on $45,000 ($5,850). That is a $1,950 tax saving. This credit only applies at a dealership trade-in, not on a private sale.

Should I trade in my car or sell it privately in Ontario?

It depends on the gap between trade-in value and private sale value, adjusted for the HST credit. If your car is worth $15,000 on trade and $19,000 privately, the $4,000 gap minus the $1,950 HST credit leaves a $2,050 net advantage for private sale. But you also need to factor in the cost of a safety certificate ($500-$800+), your time listing and showing the vehicle, and the risk of scams. For vehicles worth under $10,000 or those needing significant mechanical work, the trade-in often wins after accounting for all costs.

What do dealers actually look at when appraising a trade-in?

Dealers start with wholesale auction data (what the car would sell for at a dealer-only auction like ADESA or Manheim) and then adjust based on four factors: mechanical condition (engine, transmission, brakes, suspension), cosmetic condition (paint, interior, body damage), accident history on the CarFax, and current market demand for that specific model. The wholesale auction value is the floor. The dealer needs to either resell it at retail (with reconditioning costs) or send it to auction and break even.

What happens if I owe more on my car loan than the trade-in value?

This is called negative equity, and the remaining balance gets rolled into your new loan. If you owe $22,000 on a car worth $17,000 on trade, the $5,000 difference is added to the new vehicle's financing. On a 5-year loan at 6.99%, that $5,000 in rolled-over negative equity costs you an additional $5,900 with interest. You are paying for two cars with one loan. In most cases, it is better to continue paying down the existing loan until you reach positive equity before trading in.